I am ready to leave the ET Surfboard shop ... when I spot the catch phrase on Kevin's T-Shirt ... CRAP HAPPENS ... I can't avoid to smile ... Keeevin ... What's up!? ... I point to his T-Shirt and I say ... This is my T-Shirt ... You mean my T-Shirt!? ... I mean ... your T-Shirt is just right for me today ... Why!? ... Did you see what is written on it!? ... Mmmm ... in a sequence ... he looks to his T-Shirts, me and my board ... and he says ... Aaaabsolutely ... crap happens! ... and we laugh together ... But you know what!? You are lucky I am here to fix it ... Agreed!! ... and I leave the shop with a smile on my face ... but going back to the story from the begin ... yesterday I was back home in LA ... and after a late wake up ... I decided to go out surfing ... waves were 2-3 feet ... but towards the breakwater they had a nice shape ... first wave is a good one ... I turn left ... I ride it really well ... paddle out ... the second one is a good ride as well ... I manage to put the toes on the nose (i.e. the toes of my left foot on the nose of the board) ... it is fun ... paddle out again ... there you go ... an other good wave ... I am going for it ... I catch it ... I turn right ... I am standing ... I move my left foot ... again toes on the nose ... but ... CRAP ... my foot slips away ... BANG ... I can hear the BANG ... something strange ... I get out of the water ... NOOOOOOOOOOO ... the board is broken ... how did it happen!? ... and now, why is my leg bleeding!? ... I can’t believe it ... I look to both of them ... there are pieces of skin in the board ... and pieces of fiberglass under my skin ... I seat on the board ... and in the water I try clean my wounds from the fiberglass ... and I think ... who cares!?!? ... I will continue to surf ... I decide to catch an other wave ... but while I am trying to catch it I decide to give up ... too stupid ... the board is cracked ... the water will go into it ... CRAP!!! ... better I go back home ... I am sooo pissed ... and while I am walking home ... I meet a couple of friends who are going to play beach volley ... they can't believe to my story ... I can't believe either ... I have never seen anything like this ... and on top of that I am bleeding all the way ... not a nice show ...... but what is more painful is to think to my craked board ...... but fortunately ... there are shops that are fixing boards ... I put the board in the car... and I drive it there ... it is less than one miles from where I live ...
... and there I meet KEVIN with his T-Shirt ... he is a funny guy ... as soon as he spots the crack on the board ... he laughs and he asks me if a shark tried to give me a bite ... :D ... fortunately I did everything by myself ... the estimated cost to fix the board is $100 ... but believe me ... they are very well spent ... no other sport gave me as much as fun as surfing ... if you will ever have the chance ... go for it ... it is really great ... just be aware ... sometimes CRAP HAPPENS ... but belive me ... it is a really great sport ... the best for me ... :D
... and there I meet KEVIN with his T-Shirt ... he is a funny guy ... as soon as he spots the crack on the board ... he laughs and he asks me if a shark tried to give me a bite ... :D ... fortunately I did everything by myself ... the estimated cost to fix the board is $100 ... but believe me ... they are very well spent ... no other sport gave me as much as fun as surfing ... if you will ever have the chance ... go for it ... it is really great ... just be aware ... sometimes CRAP HAPPENS ... but belive me ... it is a really great sport ... the best for me ... :D
3 comments:
A danish collegue of mine used to say: "Crap happens ... and then you die!"
Wow - your leg is worse than I imagined! However it will be healed before your next surf - or you will go anyway! Now just be careful with the skateboard :)
Hope your leg feels better today...
... I prefer Kevin idea ... "Crap Happens, but I can fix it" ... what do you think!?
Yep ... the leg is getting better ...
XA
Post a Comment