This morning I couldn't really believe it. In Dallas was winter. Like 30F. Freezing. So when I left my place I put long jeans and sweatshirt. But as soon I open the door I found the 70F of the endless California summer. Such a nice feeling. Back in flip flop and on the beach. Absolutely stunning ...
No surf yet for me, my Achilles tendon is still hurting. I just enjoyed my friends catching waves. Here is Yama waxing her board ...
... and even if I didn't surf ... I loved the smells of a normal surfing day. The incredible smell of the neoprene of the wetsuit, the sex wax on the board, the sunscreen on the face, the salty water ... there is nothing like them ... the combination of these smells is like a dream for me ... it is surfing.
No surf yet for me, my Achilles tendon is still hurting. I just enjoyed my friends catching waves. Here is Yama waxing her board ...
... and even if I didn't surf ... I loved the smells of a normal surfing day. The incredible smell of the neoprene of the wetsuit, the sex wax on the board, the sunscreen on the face, the salty water ... there is nothing like them ... the combination of these smells is like a dream for me ... it is surfing.
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