Tuesday, January 02, 2007

LOCALS ONLY

Most of the time surfing is not exactly a Hawaiian dream of crystal clear and warm water with a lot of nice waves for everybody. Here in Southern California, the water is rarely crystal clear, never really warm .... and there are never ever enough good waves for everybody. And surfers can get really nasty if you step into their territory. And don't even think to drop into a wave that a local is already surfing. You can have serious problems. These are the rules also at the Redondo Beach breakwater... a good spot for left waves ... just a couple of blocks south from where normally I go surfing. This is the graffiti on the breakwater ... at least someone had the good idea to cancel the swastika. Such a shame that such a horrible symbol is still around ... reminds me an Italian catch phrase which translated in English sounds like ... the mom of the idiots is always pregnant ...So yesterday I went there not to surf but just to take some pictures of the locals ... nothing impressive ... the locals are good but nothing special ... they caught some waves ... but nothing spectacular ...... but it is also true that the waves were really doing a lot of white wash ... difficult to catch ...... and also a real local look at them astonished ...

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Dude,
what's up ? looks like you are having fun in Hermosa... good for you.

About the symbol, it is not the swastika or any other symbol which is important. Try to think, seriously and deeply, how the world could look like if people would not hate others just because they are different or not part of their own nation, origin, religion, culture, etc... that is exactly how it started last time regardless any symbol or signs.

All people who build themselves on the hature of others will not survive. Do not hate, do good and you feel good. Not easy to implement but very very much worthwhile trying.

Dash from YSR

 
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