... so ... it was supposed to be a surfing safari ... a California Surfing Safari ... 2 days of surfing and camping in San Onofre, CA ... at the end it went in a slightly different way ... but still it has been a great day ... so ... starting from the begin ... the main characters of this strange winter surfing safari are Oliver and Andrea (myself) ... who ... tired of the mini waves that Hermosa gave them lately ... thought to go south ... in the San Diego county ... more precisely in the San Onofre State Beach ... and with very little planning ... but with the car full of wood for the fire ... food ... alcohol ... surfboards, wax and wetsuits ... managed to wake up at 6.30AM and leave Hermosa Beach few minutes after 7AM ... ... but we were not the only one with such an idea ... so in San Onofre ... we found lot of surfers ready to ride some waves of the first winter swell ... finally good waves for everybody ...... and it was really worthwhile ... the waves were just perfect ... from 3 to 6 feet ... with a nice shape ... and it was fun ... even if ... we found really a lot of dudes out there ... :o ... in case you can't see them ... the dudes are the strange black dots in the water ... thanks G-D ... they weren't bad ... because San Onofre is really in the middle on nowhere ... mmm ... actually there is a Nuclear Reactor ... just 500 meters from the beach ... which makes the water a little bit warmer I guess ... :O ... anyways ... :O ... is really in the middle of nowhere ... so there is no local people ... who doesn't like strangers and is giving them a bad time in the water ...... so ... checked the waves ... got the surfboards off the car ... under an incredible and wonderful blue sky ... we were almost ready to go ...... but ... before going into the water ... or quoting Pulp Fiction ... before "getting into character" ... I had to take my usual ... self portrait ... you know ... in case I was bitten by a shark ... or sacked into a wave ... my mom had an updated picture to put on my tombstone ... ehehehe ... not the best ... but better than nothing ...... so ... we spent all day surfing ... with a couple of breaks to get some food ... and honestly ... I thought we did bring too much food ... but in reality was not that much ... after you spend 6 hours in the cold water ... you are really hungry. The only thing that didn't work in our loose plan ... was that we didn't manage to spend there the entire weekend ... we planned to camp there ... but ... this year they decided to close the campground in winter ... so we took a shower ... we finish the food that was left ... and still excited for the wonderful day surfing ... we packed our surfing safari ... with a nice picture ...... and we left ... direction north ... destination Los Angeles ... and I guess we were lucky ... because after we left ... some serious shower came ... and I am not sure if I my old tent is still waterproof ... :O ... and I guess ... it is never a good moment to find out ... that your tent isn't waterproof anymore ... :) ... but we have decided to repeat these surfing trips also in the next weeks ...
Saturday, December 09, 2006
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