Monday, December 11, 2006

THE BEST & THE WORST

... the phone is ringing ... Jason? ... why is Jason calling me ... it is noon ... mmm ... probably something strange did happen ... Jason, what's up? ... Come on man, get your wetsuit on ... I am coming home ... Wetsuit? Coming home? But it is noon ... half day today? ... No man, we are going surfing ... did you see the waves? ... mmmm ... no ... actually no ... you should have ... they are just perfect ... big and glassy ... you should see them ... I am coming back home to surf for the lunch break ... Really!? ... yes ... really ... they are so nice ... man ... they are just perfect ... I will be there in 2 ... get your wetsuit and let's go ... mmm ... I check my watch ... it is noon ... mmm ... and I think ... why not? ... it is my lunch break ... I can do it ... OK ... let me send a couple of emails ... put my contacts ... and I am ready ... Jason gets home ... and in 2 minutes we are ready ... we go down ... in 2nd street ... and yes ... he was right ... they are just perfect ... 2 minutes of stretching ... and we are in the water ... not even too cold ... Jason gets a great right ... I go after him ... I take a left ... a backdoor ... a tube ... I see the end but I can't get out ... the waves closes before I am out ... but it is just great ... I paddle out again ... we chit chat a little ... we realize how lucky we are ... new sets of waves are coming ... Jason gets an other couple of good one ... I get mine ... an other left ... an other tube ... 1 ... 2 ... 3 ... 4 ... 5 seconds into it ... but again ... it closes ... I didn't manage to make all the way out of the tube ... but those 4 -5 seconds ... that I spent in the barrel ... covered by the tube of water ... were just perfect ... THE BEST ... so here I am in the water ... waiting for some other wave ... thinking to an other tube ... checking the watch to go home ... and continue to work ... I want to catch the last one ... I am waiting for a small one ... and a big wave comes ... cr*p ... I am too close to the shore ... I am paddling out ... yes ... I can make it ... but I am tired ... come on Andrea ... paddle paddle paddle ... I don't want that piece of sh*t ... to suck me in ... I paddle harder ... but I am tired ... I can do it ... no I can't ... sh*t ... the wave breaks just on me ... it sucks me in ... I am underwater ... but I manage to get out .... the board ... gets into the pipe of the wave as well ... and bang ... when it comes out ... THE WORST ... it is cracked in the middle ...... yep ... my beloved surfboard ... is gone ... is dead ... it is not worth to fix it ... the damage is too big ... it is just good for the trash bin ... such a pity ... and it will cost me also some serious money to get a new one now ... I am upset ... but not too much ... these things happen ... I am glad ... anyways that I went out ... I don't want to live regretting ... the things that I could have done ... and that I never did ... an I am thinking also tha ... what is really strange is that ... the best and the worst of the things sometimes are so close ... almost ... indissoluble ... inseparable ... like two sides of the same coin ... I am not sure why ... but it is like this most of the time ... to get something ... you need to risk something ... and you can't win all the time ... but again ... it is also true that life is not what happens around you ... but it is rather what you see that happens around you ... and ... I want to believe that today ... even the worst ... hasn't been that bad ... and ... I got still the best out of my life ...

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