Thursday, April 26, 2007


So, I wake up at 6.30AM. I brew a coffee. It is warm. I seat in front of my laptop. It is kind of cold outside. I browse Internet. I open a newspaper and I see this picture ...... surf contest in Tahiti. It is Teahupoo, probably the most powerful wave around. Amazing to see. I guess almost impossible to surf. I look outside and the sun is rising. You know what? What the hell. I have only this life. And I think I need to enjoy. I get my wetsuit. I wax the board. I walk down to the beach and I surf for 1 hour. Amazing. Simply amazing. Just the fact to be so lucky to have the chance to go surfing before going to work is simply amazing to me. Everybody should be able to do it. I don't know for how long I will be able to do it. But for sure when I will look back and I will think to a morning like today, I will smile.I will smile big time. And I will know that I have been lucky. BTW ... I caught only 1 decent wave in 1 hour. But who cares. That is not important ... :D

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